Tyler and I spent our first two nights of our trip across the Sierra on the western side of the Sonora pass. I gradually began to feel unwell and I could not get warm. On the second morning, I told Tyler I was not doing well with the cold and that I needed to get out of the trees. He wisely replied, "It is not the trees, it is the altitude. We need to go lower." We packed up without breakfast and crossed the summit and descended. We actually spent that night in a motel in Bishop so we could clean up and get our bearings. The next day we headed out to explore and camp in the Volcanic Tablelands outside of Bishop. While in Bishop I also bought a warm cap for the trip back. I had packed two lighter weight caps and a goose down jacket, but still underestimated how cold the nights can get among the trees close to the summit. I was reminded that I have lived close to sea level (56 feet) for a long time.
But regarding the Tablelands. The terrain is quite dry, so when we came across the Fish Slough Ecological Reserve, I was stunned. According to a plaque there, the slough spans "over 188 acres and features natural wetland areas, riparian habitats, and alkali meadows that are fed by natural springs... and is recognized as an Area of Critical Environmental Concern." As I read and pondered, I learned of a local botanist, Mary Decker (1909-2000) who discovered the Fish Slough milk-vetch that exists only in a six mile stretch at the fish slough. I thought of the author Mary Austin (1868 - 1934) and wondered if their paths crossed. I felt gratitude for both women who were truly pioneers in their work to help protect the desert and its inhabitants.
As you can see in the photograph, the slough is fenced off, as most sensitive areas need to be now. I argued a bit with the sun about its position, but that is always a pretty futile conversation. Yet, I hope you can get a sense of the beauty of this surprising slough. What a sacred gift the slough must have been to the ancient Paiute-Shasone who inhabited this land. Not too far from the slough we found some petroglyphs, also behind a fence. I understand that there are more petroglyphs in the area, but their locations are not widely publicized because of vandals who have destroyed some of this ancient art.
I pray that we as a culture regain a sense of the sacred spirit of place and learn again to be awed by holiness. I also pray that we regain our sense of being part of the land, and not just intruders. May we learn to walk in beauty and listen to the wind.
"Water will gush forth in the wilderness
and streams in the desert.
The burning sand will become a pool,
the thirsty ground bubbling springs.
In the haunts where jackals once lay,
grass and reeds and papyrus will grow.
And a highway will be there;
it will be called the Way of Holiness;
it will be for those who walk on that Way."
Isaiah 35:6b-8
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