When we arrived in Gallup, NM, most of the galleries were already closed. We did find one that was open, and we spent some time there viewing the large collection of jewelry. The person helping us was not American Indian but rather Middle Eastern, and was probably the owner. He was knowledgeable about the various artists, and appreciative of their work, and we spent some time there.
Because I have little to no interest in Western movies or Route 66 lore, I did not expect to like the hotel as much as I did. However, the staff was friendly, and the food and margaritas were tasty, and the family owned hotel was very well maintained. It opened in 1937, and catered to those working in the film industry, particularly those who were filming Westerns in the area. On the walls are movie posters of by-gone stars such as John Wayne or Errol Flynn. Just about every photograph was of someone dressed in Western garb, often on a horse, with a gun in hand. I found the images unnerving, especially since so many of the staff were Navajo or maybe Zuni or Hopi. However, inertia set in, and we stayed. Our room was small, but so well kept that I left the last of my cash as a tip for the cleaning staff. The rooms were named for movie stars. Our room was the Joseph Cotten room, although there was a disclaimer that he probably never stayed at the hotel.
The next morning as I was packing some items into the truck, I was approached by a polite and smiling man. I could not tell you if he was young or old, but I do not believe he was Anglo. He said that he would not get paid until Monday, and was short of cash. Could I help him? Just to let him know I was not insensitive to his situation, I responded that I had to decline because I had already given away my money as a tip for the cleaning staff. He smiled again, nodded his head, and quietly walked away. Whether he was a well-practiced charlatan, or someone truly in need, or both, I will never know, but the exchange was friendly. This was the only time on the trip when I was ever approached for money, although in Albuquerque we did see one fairly disheveled man eating a slice of pizza while holding a sign announcing his homeless state. Also on this trip we saw very little graffiti, and I don’t recall seeing anyone muttering to themselves or yelling and raising their fists at something or someone unseen by those around him. I also don’t remember seeing any political advertisements. Perhaps I am simply revealing my selective memory.
From Gallup, we went on to Zuni. I had already written about that experience before, but alas, I accidently but permanently deleted that file, and will need to start over. Thank you for helping me remember.





